house training method 1

        House training is one of the first tasks that every new dog owner will undertake in the introduction of their puppy to its new home.  There are three categories of house training types :
a) Basic house training ; the establishment of an allowable toilet area for your pet.
b) Submissive wetting ; urination occurring when greeting, disciplining or high excitement.
c) Marking ; upon reaching puberty - some dogs (male or female) will mark their territory. House Training :
        House training should only take approximately two weeks to establish as a routine provided;
a) you must be consistent and committed
b) you are prepared to train your pet from the moment you take possession. Have a leash, collar, a designated area and are prepared to maintain a schedule.
        Retraining a dog that has already established bad habits can take six weeks or more.

        As soon as possible get your new puppy to the vet for a complete check-up.  This will assure you that you have obtained a healthy pup and alert you to any medical complications that can make house training more difficult.  Situations such as intestinal upset, intestinal parasites and urinary tract infections can make house training difficult to impossible.

        The designated toilet area can be as general as outside of the house or as specific as a particular corner of the backyard.  You must have a specific plan as to what the designated area is going to be.  You can not teach the dog what is acceptable if you are uncertain.

        Your attitude is one of the most important ingredients in house training your dog.  Your puppy does not know what is wrong.  If there is a mistake tell him "no" but do not discipline too severely.  You only want him to know that you are displeased, you do not want the pup to feel that you are the source of pain.  When the pup has done well, pat him, praise him, let the dog know that you are very pleased.  The pup will want to do things that please you.  House training can be a foundation for all future training.  Affection and praise as a reward for proper response - "no" signaling displeasure and guidance to show the dog what you do want.

1. Create a schedule that is practical for you to maintain.  If you can not stick to your schedule - you can't expect the dog to adhere to it.
2. Do not allow your dog to free feed until house training is well established.  Be very careful of your dogs diet - avoid foods and/or snacks that can be upsetting to his digestive tract.
3. Schedule your dog's bed time and waking-up time.  Adhere to these times as closely as possible.
4. Young pups will require frequent nap times, be sure that your schedule can accommodate the pup's naps.  Remember that the pup will need to be taken outside after each nap.
5. Emotional intensity - after intense emotional stimulation (badly scared, frightened, or a particularly rowdy play session) the pup may need to relieve himself.
6. Within two to three days, most dogs will be able to "control themselves" for eight hours during the night.  You must keep in mind that your daytime schedule will need to be somewhat flexible.  By paying attention to your dog, you will learn his nap requirements.  Your dog will learn "the routine" and you will both have a schedule that you can live with.

Supervise in the House :
1. By knowing where your dog is at all times, and what he is doing, you can avoid mistakes.  When a pup stops playing and starts to look around for a "good spot", he needs to go out.  By observing your dog you will quickly learn to tell the difference between the pup's exploring his new universe and his searching for a "good location".
2. If the pup starts to make a mistake, firmly but quietly say "No" and take the dog straight to his toilet area.  Do not yell at the dog.  Do not chase the dog.  At this point it is up to you to be observant of your dog.  Any mistakes that are made are due to your not paying attention.
3. If you can not supervise the dog for a period of time, put the dog in a confinement area (prepared with papers) or confine him to the room where you are.
4. When you are relaxing (watching TV, reading or on computer), have the dog with you.  Give the pup some of his toys to play with.  Have the dog on his leash or confine him to the room where you are, so that he doesn't wander of and have an accident.  Teach him that it can be enjoyable just being with you.

When you can't be with your dog:
1. Provide a small area confinement area (bathroom with all "chewable" items removed, fenced off area of the garage, or a crate).
2. Do not leave food and water with the dog, or fill him with cookies or snacks before you leave.  You should schedule the pup's breakfast to be at least 2 hours before your planned departure time.  That way the pup can eat, digest his food and relieve himself prior to your departure.
3. Ideally, if you are going to be gone for more than eight hours, someone should give the dog a drink and an opportunity to relieve himself.

Taking the dog out (to the latrine) :
1. Take your dog on leash to the designated toilet area.  Stand quietly, so that the dog can find the right spot.  Do not distract the dog.  Do not praise the dog during his search.  If after about 5 minutes your dog hasn't gone to the bathroom, return him to the house (keeping a close eye on him) for about 1/2 hour, then try again.
2. As the dog starts to relieve himself; calmly praise him.  Use a chosen word or phrase (good potty or wonderful potty).  This phrase will only be used for praise in going potty.
3. When the dog has finished relieving himself praise him more enthusiastically.  Let him know that you are very proud of him.
4. Remember your dog's routine. Some dogs will "potty" two or three times per outing in the morning, but only twice per outing in the evening.  Urination is often followed by defecation, while other dogs will do the reverse.
5. Even. if the weather is foul, do not let your dog know that you don't want to be going outside with him.  By teaching your dog that even in bad weather going outside is "the thing to do", to please you, then he will be more willing to convey his needs to you.
6. While you are learning your dog's "time table", take him out immediately after he wakes up, after he has eaten and after all play sessions.

Catching the dog "in the act" :
1. Without yelling, firmly say "No".  If you still don't have the dog's attention, clap your hands.
2. Get the dog outside, to the designated latrine area.  If the dog relieves himself outside praise him.  Proceed with the potty routine.
3. Clean the mess with a deodorizing or odor killing cleanser.  If the dog smells his own scent as having been used as a bathroom area, the dog will continue to use the area.
If the cleanser is not able to eliminate enough of the scent so that the dog can not detect it, you can help mask the scent over with vanilla extract.  Just one or two drops will make it impossible for the dog to smell any lingering odor.

If you find a mess after the fact :
1. Do not punish the dog.
2. Accept the fact that you were not paying attention to the dog.
3. Do not show the dog that you are upset.  Calmly put the dog on his leash and bring him to the location of the accident.  With the dog at your side, firmly scold the potty.  Do not scold the dog.
4. Blot up some urine, or pick up some stool with a piece of paper.  Take the evidence and the dog to the latrine area.  Place the paper on the ground and with the dog watching praise the potty for being in the "right" place.  Temporarily leave the paper there. (Remove it when the dog isn't watching)
5. Clean up the remaining mess in the house as outlined above.


The absolute first thing you must train your dog to do is is housebreaking No, no, you don’t teach your dog how to break into your house when you forget your keys. Housebreaking means he must learn where and when he may do his business. Besides being substantially advantageous to the hygiene of your household, dogs benefit from having rules and a routine - as pack animals, they look for duties issued by the pack leader and naturally enjoy keeping schedules. Here are the steps to housebreaking your dog.

Dog House Training 1 - The best age to begin housebreaking your puppy is between 8 and 12 weeks old.

Dog House Training 2 - Experts suggest incorporating a crate in a young dog's training process. (To housebreak an older dog, skip this section.) A crate usually resembles a cage, with a locking door and see-through bars, and should be big enough for the dog to move around in. While it sounds like a miniature jail cell, crates should not be used to punish your puppy. The idea is to make the crate into a doggy bedroom - someplace where your puppy can play and sleep. He should never be confined in his crate for more than two hours at a time.

Dog House Training 3 - Because dogs, thank goodness, don't believe in eliminating by their sleeping areas, your puppy will not relieve himself in the crate unless you've cruelly locked him in there for longer than he was able to hold it in. Three-month old puppies generally need to eliminate every three hours, so lead your puppy to a designated outdoor bathroom spot often.

Dog House Training 4 - Try to always leave the house through the same door - the door you'd like your dog to scratch at to signal his need to go out in the future.

Dog House Training 5 - Try to take your dog out at around the same times each day. A routine will eventually be established, and your dog will soon know to hold it in until you take him out.

Dog House Training 6 - If your not-yet-housebroken dog is used to roaming freely around the house, look for clues that tell you he needs to go. Your dog may suddenly put his nose down and sniff the ground intently. He may begin to circle an area. Or, he may stare at the door with an intense look on his face. Signs like these tell you to drop what you're doing and get that dog out of the house. If you catch your dog doing his business inside (and only if you catch him - not after you discover he's already committed the crime), rush over and stop him by grasping his collar, pulling up on it, and saying, "NO" in a deep, stern voice. Then take him outside to let him finish up and praise him with pats on the head or a pleasantly chirped, "Good Fido!" when he does. (Note Don't say "Fido" if your dog's name is "Rex.")


house training method 2

Supervise, Supervise, Supervise
Don’t give your puppy an opportunity to soil in the house. He should be watched at all times when he is
indoors. You can tether him to you with a leash or use baby gates to keep him in your view. Watch for
signs that he needs to eliminate, like sniffing around or circling. When you see these signs, immediately
take him outside, on a leash, to his bathroom spot. If he eliminates, praise him lavishly and reward him with
a treat.
When you’re unable to watch your puppy closely, he should be confined to an area small enough that
he won’t want to eliminate there. It should be just big enough for him to comfortably stand, lie down and
turn around. This area could be a portion of a bathroom or laundry room, blocked off with boxes or baby
gates. Or you may want to crate train your puppy and use the crate to confine him (see our handout:
“Crate Training Your Dog”). If your puppy has spent several hours in confinement, make sure to take him
directly to his bathroom spot before doing anything else.
Expect your puppy to have an accident in the house – it’s a normal part of housetraining.
􀁸􀀃 When you catch him in the act of eliminating in the house, do something to interrupt him, like
make a startling noise (be careful not to scare him). Immediately take him to his bathroom spot,
praise him and give him a treat if he finishes eliminating there.
􀁸􀀃 Don’t punish your puppy for eliminating in the house. If you find a soiled area, it’s too late to
administer a correction. Do nothing but clean it up. Rubbing your puppy's nose in it, taking him to
the spot and scolding him (or any other punishment or discipline) will only make him afraid of you
or afraid to eliminate in your presence. Animals don’t understand punishment after the fact, even if
it’s only seconds later. Punishment will do more harm than good.
􀁸􀀃 Cleaning the soiled area is very important because puppies are highly motivated to continue
soiling in areas that smell like urine or feces (see our handout: “Successful Cleaning to Remove Pet
Odors and Stains”).
It’s extremely important that you use the supervision and confinement procedures outlined above to
minimize the number of accidents. If you allow your puppy to eliminate frequently in the house, he’ll get
confused about where he’s supposed to eliminate, which will prolong the housetraining process.
Paper Training
A puppy under 6 months of age cannot be expected to control his bladder for more than a few hours at
a time. If you have to be away from home for more than four or five hours a day, this may not be the best
time for you to get a puppy. If you’re already committed to having a puppy and have to be away from
home for long periods of time, you’ll need to train your puppy to eliminate in a specific place indoors. Be
aware, however, that doing so can prolong the process of teaching him to eliminate outdoors. Teaching
your puppy to eliminate on newspaper may create a life-long surface preference, meaning that he may,
even in adulthood, eliminate on any newspaper he finds lying around the house.
When your puppy must be left alone for long periods of time, confine him to an area with enough room
for a sleeping space, a playing space and a separate place to eliminate. In the area designated as the
elimination place, you can either use newspapers, a sod box or litter. To make a sod box, place sod in a
container, like a child’s small, plastic swimming pool. You can also find dog litter products at pet supply
stores. If you clean up an accident in the house, take the soiled rags or paper towels, and put them in the
designated elimination place. The smell will help your puppy recognize the area as the place where he is
supposed to eliminate.
Other Types Of Housesoiling Problems
If you’ve consistently followed the housetraining procedures and your puppy continues to eliminate in the
house, there may be another reason for his behavior.
􀁸􀀃 Medical Problems: House soiling can often be caused by physical problems, such as a urinary tract
infection or a parasite infection. Check with your veterinarian to rule out any possibility of disease
or illness.
􀁸􀀃 Submissive/Excitement Urination: Some dogs, especially young ones, temporarily lose control of
their bladders when they become excited or feel threatened. This usually occurs during greetings,
intense play or when they’re about to be punished (see our handout: “Submissive and Excitement
􀁸􀀃 Territorial Urine-Marking: Dogs sometimes deposit urine or feces, usually in small amounts, to scentmark
their territory. Both male and female dogs do this, and it most often occurs when they believe
their territory has been invaded (see our handout: “Territorial Marking Behavior in Dogs and Cats”).
􀁸􀀃 Separation Anxiety. Dogs that become anxious when they’re left alone may house soil as a result.
Usually, there are other symptoms, such as destructive behavior or vocalization (see our handout:
“Separation Anxiety”).
􀁸􀀃 Fears or Phobias. When animals become frightened, they may lose control of their bladder and/or
bowels. If your puppy is afraid of loud noises, such as thunderstorms or fireworks, he may house soil
when he’s exposed to these sounds (see our handout: “Helping Your Dog Overcome the Fear of
Thunder and Other Startling Noises”).